17thC image British Museum archive depicting a white gomlek under a hirka or short entari
Finest, translucent woven cotton or silk fabric was used to make the under garments. There are examples of men’s winter gomleks made of fine wool. This garment was very wide and loose and often reached to the ankles, with generously wide, long sleeves.
15thC Armenian woman wearing an entari over a gomlek and salvar
The entari was a decorative indoor coat cut in several designs:
16thC Ottoman ladies
Long to the floor:
long sleeved – tight fitted at the top widening below the elbow
Short to below the hips:
long tight sleeved
The most popular fabrics were heavy silks such as brocaded silk, velvet, brocaded silk with metallic threads in lampas structure, and clothe of gold and silver. Colours – rich reds and yellows, some blue but green was rare until the 18th century
Women’s everyday wear did not change greatly during this time and comprised of:
Salvar (trousers) that were very baggy at the waist tapering to the ankles. The salvar were often coloured though did not usually match the rest of the outfit.
Gomlek (a chemise) that was mid-calf length and made from a transparent diaphanous fabric usually depicted in white.
Machine stitched ribs
The Hirka or fitted jacket was worn over the gomlek and might be sleeveless or have long tight sleeves or wide short sleeves. I suggest this was dependent on the weather! The jacket was buttoned to the waist. A sash or belt was tied at to just below the waist or on the hips.
The entari was worn over the hirka as a more formal dress. This garment was of a similar cut to the hirka but longer to the floor. Both the hirka and the entari were buttoned to the waist leaving the skirts to flare out. The top buttons were often left open to the underside of the bust allowing the entari to gape open. A sash or belt was worn about the hips.
Ferace – indoor clothing was highly coloured and very eye-catching however when a woman went outside she would cover herself modestly with a ferace. This was a simple overcoat in a dark sombre colour, buttoned to the throat. She would also cover her face with a yashmak.
There is mention of another garment – the yelek – a jacket worn over the entari, often lined with fur.